Welcome to another segment of Traveling Writing from My Chair. As mentioned in my blog, August of 2023, I introduced a beloved city of San Miguel de Allende in the state of Guanajuato, Mexico. Once again, I am reading about current trips taken by comrade bloggers to Palermo, Tokyo, and Petritoli, and locals hiking through Bryce Canyon, and train trips across the great Rockies. For my husband and I, we flip through the photo albums and I read from my journal. Please join us on this adventure…
I Think I Will Start with a Bloody Mary
Once upon a summer not so long ago, six very grown-up children sat out on an adventure and traveled to a city, far, far away. The meeting place to begin our travels was at the airport in Phoenix, Arizona to receive arrangements and be on our way. On an early dawn Tuesday morning our little group gathered at the terminal. David and Gail of Prescott, Arizona whom we had known for a length of time greeted each of us as we arrived. She was an employee of America West Airlines and generously got us smokin’ deals on 1st Class airfare. We met Jerry and Sandi for the first time who live in California and willing to join in on this excursion.
We allowed leniency for David to be our group coordinator since he speaks a bit of Spanish and he and Gail have been to San Miguel before. We also gave him the tag name of ‘El Capitan—the Fleecing Agent’ which he rightly deserved. Once 1st class began to board, Gail shuffled everyone into spacious leather seats with plenty of legroom. I am 5’10” and boy, this was great–I could see my toes. Jerry and Sandi sat behind Allen and me, and David and Gail were to our left. As the next line of passengers boarded, our flight attendant began to take our cocktail orders even though only 9:00 a.m. My husband would not pass such an opportunity to begin a vacation. “Umm” he said stroking his chin, “I think I’ll start with a Bloody Mary.”
“Did you hear that?” said Jerry rising out of the seat with his right eye cloth patch due to recent surgery. He leaned up and patted Allen on the shoulder. “That’s a classic, ‘I think I’ll start with a Bloody Mary’. Buddy, you, and I are going to get along just fine.” And so, the tone was set for the entire trip ahead and none of us could begin to imagine what exactly that would mean. I on the other hand kicked back with my rum and diet Pepsi working hard at imagining San Miguel. This was our first trip to this colonial quaint city and as I’ve noted prior in writings, my husband and I went many times after. This rumble-tumble city carved in between stone, lush growth, and drowsy hillsides forever stay with us.
Meantime, the remainder of the passengers are loaded, seatbelts and overheads snapped shut and the flight attendant returns to take away our drinks. “But I am not done,” as she reaches for my tray. I take hold of my glass with at least a third still in it. “But we have to retrieve everything and the trays in their upright position.” “But I am not done.” The flight attendant with her elegant blonde hair in place and just the right shade of pouty pink lipstick smiles. Gail who sits across the aisle leans over, “Sally, you can have another free one once we take off!” “Oh, very well then,” and I sheepishly hand my glass to the patient flight attendant. David looks at the coiffed blonde, “We can’t take her anywhere.”
On the third day in San Miguel, the six of us took a taxi to the local bus depot to go to Delores Hildago located 42 kilometers from San Miguel. We bought tickets at the Autobus Central and clamored on with children, parents, grandparents, and a few college students from Texas. The driver took off out of the gates with the pedal to the metal, the Governor–the speed limiter device–screaming on red ninety percent of the trip. We tagged this ride, ‘Better than an E-ticket at Disneyland’. Along the sides of the narrow road, kids who herded goats scattered from the honking bus horn, and dogs barked and fled. All the surrounding landscape turned into a blending of brown and green fuzz. Once in Delores, we uncovered our eyes, and stuffed our unclicked cameras back in their cases to gather our bags, laughing wholeheartedly we were off the bus and standing up.
Our intentions in this city were to obtain the pottery painted at Delores for which they were famous. Every region has individual styles, and we were after the popular Talavera. Our Capitan made his usual ‘delicate inquires’ wherever we ventured. He located the factory and was told it was just on the outskirts of Delores and past the small Universidad. “The man said to walk north past the Universidad, keep going and it is a short distance past.” David’s translation from Spanish to English may have been the reason for the extended hike that was later termed (we love our coined phrases) ‘uphill both ways, barefoot and in the snow.’ Nonetheless, we trudged on—one kilometer, 2 kilometers—and I stopped and threw my empty Bosa (the Mexican vinyl shopping bag) in the middle of the road. Dirt, plenty of cacti, no houses, no people, nothing but us six gringos looking like idiots.
“I’ve had it. There is NO damn pottery factory out here. Look around and tell me what you see!” I glared at David, my throat was dry, my forehead was sweaty, and challenged his so-called ‘delicate inquiry’. “Alright Sally, we don’t want your blood pressure going up. Wait here, I’ll run ahead and see what I can do.” David sprinted up the desolate road to catch up with Allen, Gail, and Sandi. Jerry waited with me as our shadows mingled in the heat. David reached the others, his ball cap waving about, pointing one way and then the other when a red pickup appeared from the direction of town. It scooted past Jerry and me scattering webs of dust around our feet and sweaty heads, coming to a slow stop at David’s flailing arms.
“No, it can’t be. No way,” said Jerry, rubbing his eye patch and watching David motion wildly to the back of the truck. We ran to catch up while everyone else climbed in the bed, through boxes and sacks of limones, lettuce, corn, and cilantro. I was grateful there were no crates of chicken feathers flying in our face. The truck jerked into gear and away we went, bouncing through the sparse desert landscape.
“You know David”, says Allen, his hand cupping his words through the wind, “our trip has finally digressed into what I knew you could make it!” The driver, a young kid not old enough to have a license motored his red truck straight to the pottery factory door and patiently waited for us to climb out. He refused to take any pesos and sped off waving his hand out the window.
Once facing the door, the desperation of a drug cartel appearing over a ridge to pat us down for drug stealing then a bullet hole through our skull or sex traffickers stripping us naked only to say, ‘No way José’ and then disappear over the same ridge out in the middle of nowhere vanished from my head as I looked at the simple carved wooden door. Never mind! This glorious pottery and such cheap prices! David turned the knob, “After you ladies.”
What did we find? Did we fill our bags of brightly painted hand-crafted pottery? How did we get back to town? Stay tuned and thank you for reading!